When you use the word hedge, most people envisage a vertical wall of box, privet or laurel, pruned and clipped to perfection to create the illusion of a solid wall of greenery. That's pretty much a modern idea though, as hedging of one sort or another has been about since prehistory. The earliest ones were probably all about defence, made of sharpened stakes and thorns, but even so their use as boundary markers goes back to the Bronze Age when farmers had to clear the ancient forest to make field systems. Handy things, hedges.
Enter a problem, here at the Hollow. When I dropped the idea of a polytunnel into the garden plan, I was at pains to make sure that I understood how it would relate to the rest of the garden; I thought about access to water and power, about how it would stretch zone 2 away from the house, and about shade and reflected light. There was something that I missed, though, which is that in placing it so close to a parallel hedge I created a wind tunnel when the wind comes in from the east - not a common event here, but every year since the tunnel went up there has been a strong easterly just as the pumpkin patch is getting going - and every year I've lost plants.
A windbreak near the tunnel end seemed to be the way forward, and hedging is the simplest natural way to provide it. The trouble is that conventional hedging takes two or three years to establish, and I want the windbreak effect straight away. Happily the answer lies with those early hedges, because they weren't the high-maintenance topiary creations given to us by the Tudors; they were "dead hedges" - simple barriers made out of the least usable pieces of timber when an area was cleared.
The simplest (and least skilled) form of dead hedge involves hammering in a row of upright stakes. Happily I still had a handful of old fencing posts, rescued from a dump when a local farmer replaced a line of fencing and still in good condition, but stout lengths of any slow-rotting wood such as alder would work just fine. The stakes are spaced two or three feet apart in a row, and then a second parallel row is hammered in two or three feet behind the first. A few pieces of supple growth such as ash or hazel are woven through the stakes to create rough sides, and if you like you can push smaller timbers through them to make a more defined side. Now you have two very rough hurdles, and into the space between them you can drop felled or rotting timber, hedge cuttings, and any other twiggy or woody garden refuse that you don't want to shred for the compost bin; very handy for the likes of bramble and ivy!
Over time, the enclosed timber will begin to rot down and the hedge will get shorter, so you simply pile more stuff on top; that, and replacing any uprights which rot through, is the only maintenance the hedge will need. In terms of ecology it's very similar to a woodpile, so you can expect to see various wildlife make use of the shelter and food - I'm holding out for a hedgehog in our little hedge, and I'll be planting some poached egg plant at the base to prevent couch grass moving in - and perhaps a perennial sweet pea on the east side to bring in the bees. Happy hedging.






















