All righty then. I've decided to use the blog as a notepad during the designing process, so if edible hedging doesn't interest you then skip this post all together. But really, there's nothing all that special about them and they could potentially be used in any situation that calls for a hedge, provided you don't mind a bit of extra width compared to a privet.
A hedgerow is more than a line of single plants. Take a look at one in the countryside and you'll see that that's usually how they started, but since they were put in nature has forced some changes. Some of the original plants have died, and their places have been taken by self-seeding local shrubs like elder. These plants have become gappy over time too, and so opportunists like bramble have scrambled up into the holes. As the hedge matured the canopy raised, so allowing smaller or slower-growing shrubs like blackthorn to gain a toehold in some places; and underneath the whole thing there's a vegetable layer of bulbs and herbs, growing when light levels allow. The hedge has got wider too unless the farmer has been ruthless, and that width has allowed a rich variety of animals and birds to colonize it.
In designing an edible hedge you have to mimic that arrangement with edible or otherwise useful plants, using as many native plants as possible since they're the ones which will attract the most wildlife. That's not just some laudable concept on an ecological level either, since the more varied the ecosystem of your area is the more robust it is, which in gardening terms translates to fewer problems with pest population booms. You might think your single garden can't possibly make a difference to the balance of species in your neighbourhood, particularly if you're in a built-up area, but you'd be wrong - but more of that in a later post about wildlife gardening.
Okay, down to brass tacks. This means, first and foremost, choosing a "backbone" of tall shrubs and small trees which will grow to a height that's not far off the eventual height of the hedge. Getting the heights right at this stage is important, as otherwise the hedge will either not fill out (if they're too small) or will need contant hacking back (if they're too large). In most places in my hedge I'll want things that grow fairly quickly, since the visual screening aspect is important to me. The site is sloping, so the first thing I need to do is go out there with a bamboo cane marked with half-metre increments, and measure the height I want at intervals across the garden; I want to screen off the "working garden" from the patio without losing the view of the woods. Tricky. Twenty minutes and one car alarm incident* later, I have my measurements.
path to the tunnel is just visible.
That's a bit of a shock - I thought I had more height to play with and several of my shortlisted plants have had to be ruled out straight away, but never mind. For reasons of economy I've decided to order all the plants for this stage from a single source, Buckingham Nurseries; another alternative, brought lately to my attention, is Ashridge Trees who offer a better range of hedging packs. I will also look at the Agroforestry Research Trust since I'm giving them an order for an apple tree in the autumn. They're more use with the shrub and vegetable layers in any case. As I go I'm also cross-referencing with the Plants For A Future database, which is hugely useful; sadly they don't sell the plants and their list of suppliers is (and always has been) very poorly maintained. Time to measure my hedge run, which I can do off the plan for ease - it's about seventeen metres. We decided to do it without the diddly bit to screen off the whirly line on the right hand side for the moment, by the way, since it's going to be a while before I get round to setting that area up.
Now it's time to work out my shortlist, which I shan't bore you with. Suffice it to say that I've drawn a line representing my hedge, with approximate heights marked along it. Under that I'm putting plant names, marking their minimum and maximum heights against the line; minimum heights obviously means more trimming. I'm looking in particular for nitrogen fixers (although these can be introduced in the lower layers too) and things that will cross-pollinate the other fruit trees and shrubs in the garden. These "wild cousins", if I can include them, may actually increase yield in their cultivated relatives. There's probably no mileage in including any nut trees because of our local tree-rat population, which is voracious - although I might sneak one in and see how long it takes them to notice it...
All done. In the end, all the plants I wanted were in stock at Buckingham Nurseries and it cost me £45 + £5 post and packing. Not as bad as I had feared, and it would have been cheaper if I hadn't wanted a couple of the taller plants. At any rate, the backbone of the hedge is ordered and I'll post more about my choices when I plant them up. The next stage is to get hold of smaller shrubs for the middle layer, and a mix of plants for the vegetable layer; I have a few tasty candidates lined up, but I'm out of time for now. Back soon!
*Why do these things even exist? I have never heard of anyone being alerted to the presence of a thief by their car alarm. The seem to exist only to annoy neighbours and therefore, by extension, me. Same goes for house alarms. Grr!






