People watching is one of my principal joys on a visit to London. The capital seems to be populated with some splendidly contemptuous females, although why this should be I have no idea. As Witchypoo and I were hurrying to catch a central line tube* at Embankment I was treated to a suitable display. My eye was caught by a man flapping his hands in an unmistakeable 'calm down' gesture while his twenty-something girlfriend, hand on one hip, regarded him through narrowed eyes. People were boarding the train behind the couple, but something in her face was creating a bubble of clear space around them, and straying into it would have clearly meant an agonizing death. If I was to use the word glare accurately here, I would first have to bash her gaze against an anvil a few times to take the edge of it. She absolutely blazed at him, and whatever he had been saying trailed away into nothing.
There was a long pause, and everything around them seemed to go still before she spoke.
'You know your problem?' she asked him. The pause stretched on. He didn't dare reply, but silence wasn't going to help him. 'You're such a wanker.' And with that she turned on her heel and stepped onto the train. He visibly reeled from the force of this pronouncement, and by the time he'd collected himself the doors were closing and the girl was whisked away into the bowels of the city.
Excellent.
Later that same evening on the platform at Paddington, I tuned in abruptly to a conversation that was going on right behind me. I'm not sure if it was the words that alerted me or the accent, which was a bizarre mix of cockney and north african, overlaid with a twist of a hackneyed carribean lilt that sounded suspiciously like Hollywood jamaican.
'What you have to remember, man,' the voice said (although it was more like Wad-ya hev-da re-mamba, mon) 'Is that this is Africa, right here. It doesn't matter what it says on the maps, this is Africa.'
I felt myself turning involuntarily, as if I was on casters. There was no way I could not look at the speaker. My mind's eye had already painted him in as a Rastafarian version of Obi-Wan Kenobi, but the reality was more surprising; he was a dapper little man dressed in a sharp suit and a pair of eye-watering winkle pickers** with the ensemble completed by a little Tommy Hilfiger paper-and-string carrier bag, which he carried in a way which made it clear that it held something small and hysterically expensive.
Africa, indeed. Excellent.
The last noteworthy conversation sat itself down right beside me, as Witchypoo and I slogged our way back to Victoria to catch our coach back to Hicksville. These two were office workers in their late twenties, and apparently firm friends. It transpired that the male of the pair had been touched, er, somewhat intimately by the office letch who was;
- Creepy
- Of senior rank, and
- Unexpectedly bisexual in one of those terrifying rumour-mill-failure moments that life likes to throw into the mix from time to time.
The Fondled was lost. 'Oh, all right,' he said in a tone of defeat, just as the doors opened and the pair were carried from sight.
There are eight million stories in the Greater London Area; this was the one I most wanted to hear the end of.
Bogus. Most, most bogus.
*For non-Brits, I should mention that 'the tube' refers to London's underground railway network, sometimes referred to as 'thundergrind'. Constructed by the Victorians, apparently entirely out of soot and pigeon crap, it is where English people go to apologize to each other. If you have never tried it, I recommend a visit to London purely to stand on someone's toes on purpose. They will apologize to you, I guarantee it.
** Shoes with painfully pointed toes. I mean, seriously. A health and safety violation on the tube, I would have thought.
***Ooh, I nearly forgot - Happy Hallowe'en, ladies!


12 comments:
Oh, The Tube! My only visit to London was mainly comprised of riding the Tube around town for 36 hours of jet-lag delerium as we waited to get a flight to Sweden. That was the trip where I stepped off the plane and I "knew" England--I had a distinct recognition and resonance with it even though I'd never been there before. Maybe its in my genes--I'm mostly UK with some German and Swedish thrown in to confound things, but I've never been able to explain it.
Now why didn't you tell me you were coming? i could have bought you a coffee in the Commons.
People watching on the tube is the best thing ever. Last night a very posh lady dressed up to the nines who was really very, very drunk managed to fall asleep while halfway through chomping on a McDonald's.
I love getting the odd snaches of conversations too. Walking down from Tower bridge yesterday morning I heard one (very, very east London) man say to another, "if you do it, you'll just look back in the future and think of yourself as a complete c***. A complete c***".
Ooh, I can tell you the next line of the fondling story.
"X licked his lips, and said "I like rolling a couple of lychees around in my mouth, don't you?"
Those were the exact words spoken to a male friend of mine about 12 years ago by his male bi-sexual boss.
I'm glad I'm out of London.
Okay, my husband wants to know about the photograph. What is the backstory, as it were, on this one?
Keep in mind, we are Americans so this type of sculpture is quite, ummm, foreign to us.
And no, my name is not a political affiliation. It is a common American nickname for Victoria.
Lol! Excellent and most amusing..more please.
Aah, the tube. Went on it once with a friend who turned out to be claustrophobic. They couldn't have mentioned this before we got on could they? Anyway.
It's not just London that is populated with contemptuous females. My home city (which is tidgy as cities go) also has them. I'm wondering if it's a thing that happens to city people? If so, I'm moving back to the country.
Master Mudge: Whoa! Past life intrusion! *twilight zone music*
Mildew: Dammit, I never thought. Oh well, at least it completes the cycle of mutual avoidance. Next time, eh?
Stonehead: Omigod, that's a mental image I really wish I didn't have. Thanks a whole bunch.
Tory: the (tiny) caption says it all - there's no backstory, I jus stumbled on the pic and had to retrieve my eyebrows from the light fittings, so quickly had they shot up. Perhaps the chap on the ladder is looking for his car keys.
DJK: Ah, stop. You're embarrassing me.
Hope: The best bit is when you're working in a pharmacy on Fleet Street and a Japanese Gothic Lolita-style girl walks in and says "Can you give me my description?" (people often say that instead of prescription).
Bite down hard to avoid replying "Well, you're about 5'4" and less than half your healthy weight; you need to shave your legs; and if you're going to dye your hair pink and wear black lipstick you need to do your roots more often."
You will never look at lychees in the same way again, Hedgewizard. Personally, I've never eaten them since hearing that line.
Excellent! Most excellent! I love the way you tell a tale - so few words, but so descriptive! I was *there* with you :)
I shall embarrass you some more. That was sooo funny - the most amusing, entertaining piece since the last one you wrote. In fact, Mr Vix, noticing my obvious mirth and pleasure has just pronounced "you have 'a soft spot' for that Hedge person!" then went on to enquire whether you were attending La Que Sabe's party. My reply was that there would be far too much of a heavy carbon footprint implication for such frivolity. See .... told you I would embarrass you some more ;o)
I obviously have to come to London, if only to ride on a public transportation system made of 'soot and pigeon crap'. Plus I can find some person wearing extra pointy shoes to stand on, thereby performing a public service AND getting an apology!
Andrew said
Last travelled the tube in '73, '74 when the IRA were practicing vaporising the dust and pidgeon crap. Your hilarity about bungy jumping elves and people watching struck a raw nerve (or mayber the humerus- ouch). I sometimes wonder if someone produced a fake users guide to the underground (sort of A-Z for the AA) like Moldovia travel book, whether people would spot the difference. When I was last in london , everyone sported Jethro Tull/ Ian Anderson longhair and album art meant something rather than the blindess inducing results of CD's. Anyone blest with the wonders of Urban public transport could support conversations in the vein of the blog. Recently when in Vancouver (yes it cost a lot of carbon and folding stuff too) I discovered the joys of underground supermarkets and at ground carparks, when Canadians were bathing in the glorious warmth of a few weeks in the mid 20's, the hint of mosquitoes while snow lay round on all the mountains. They dressed and smelled like Middle Earth, but had Iranians and Japaneses the way Los Angeles has Hispanics. Public transport is wonderful prism to see another country by, and lets face it we will all soon be doing it, if we travel abroad at all. Now when is Ken livingstone declaring Joke free zones in london, under licence or revive stocks in public places: nothing will ever destroy english ribaldry: the Lychees image is almost shakespearian and still suitably global and Freudian. I can safely say I was once rather savaged by a randy barbar/ barber when seeking a haircut in a certain melbourne suburb: am happy to say I now have little hair to be ever grappled in the short and curlies. As for contemptuous women, they abound always and ever: earnestness and self importance: maybe that is why germaine makes london her home of choice. Mrs Thatcher where are you when you are most needed! As for toe treading, dont do it to an Algerian in Paris, it can be unpleasant and bruising.
Keep those ears out a for more cheap thrills from the theatre of life.
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